Improvement in button-hole sewing-machines



6 Sheets-Sheet 1'.

E. MOREAU, Button-Hole Sewing-Machine. A No. 204,873. Patented June 11,1878.

6 Sheets-Sheet; 2:.

8. 8 e.e mw 1M] Had .M Ugw AH Ella RWP 0e, MS e ...l1 H O H n O .fu .Tu u B E. MOREAU. Button-Hole Sewing-Machine. No. 204,873. Patented June I1, 1878.

6 Sheets-Sheet 3.:

6 Sheets-Sheet 51"" E. MOREAU. Button-11016 Sewing-Machine.

No. 204,873. Patented June11,1878.

6 sheets-sneen-..

E. MOREAU. Button-Hole eWng-Machine.

Palt4e\ntelunel1,1878.

co.. P'jooumo., wAsmwGroN, n. c

.the city and county of San Francisco,

. top view of that portion of the UNITED STATES PATENT OEEIoE.

EUGN E MOREAU, OF SAN FRANCISCO, CALIFORNIA, ASSIGNOR TO MOREAU MACHINE MANUFACTURING COMPANY, OF SAME PLACE.

IMPROVEMENT Specification forming .part of Letters Patent No. 204,873,

dated June 11, 1878; application filed July 23, 1877 patented in England, November 6, 1873.

.To all whom it may concern: g

Beit knownthat I, EUGENE MOREAU, of in the State of California, have invented a new and useful Improvement in Button-Hole Sewing- M'achines, which invention is fully set forthin the following specification, reference being had to the accompanying drawings, in which* Figure lis a longitudinal vertical section in the plane :n.r, Fig. 3. Fig. 2 is a transverse vertical section in the plane mzc, Fig. 3. Fig. 3 is a plan or top View of the machine, the cloth-plate and parts above it having been removed to expose the working mechanism below. Fig. 4 is a detached sectional plan view of the parts giving motion to the button-hole clamp. Figs. 5, 6, 7, and 8 are detached views of tliecams and their connections for producing the longitudinal and side motions of the button-hole clamp. Fig. 9 is a diagram illustr-ating the movements of the button-hole. clamp beneath the needle. Fig. 10 is a diagram illustrating the movements of the needleactuatingmechanism. Fig. 1l. is a longitudinal vertical section` of the button-hole clamp and carriage to whichnthe same is attached, on a larger scale than the previous figures. Fig. l2 is a transverse section of the same in the plane 1/ y, Fig. 1l. Fig. 13 is a button-holeclanip situated in front of the line y y, Fig. l1. Fig. l-l is a top view of the stationary needleplate and the transversely-slidin g throat-plate. Fig. l5 is a top View of a part of the shuttlerace and button-hole gages attached to it, with the mechanism for operating them.

My invention relates to certain imp'rovements in that class of sewing-machines chiey designed for embroidering and stitching button-holes, as hereinafter more fully explained. In the drawings, the letterA designates the box or case inclosing the working mechanism ofmysewing-machine, and affording the proper support and bearings for the various parts. lt is provided with a top plate or cover, A1, which protects the parts within said case, and constitutes the cloth-plate or supporting-surface for the work to besewed. The @urged stationary armor goose-neck A2 is secured to the top of a standard, A3, which rises from the bottom l ment of the feed-collar it supports the needle-bar or aperture previously cut in it to the action of 1 the stitch-forming mechanism in a regular proy gressive manner, step by step, until the entire length of said slit has been brought beneath the needle, beginning atv the starting-point.

The clamp B. is secured to a carriage, C, by means of a screw, f 4, Figs. 3 and 1l, and receives the required movements by a series of cams D Dl D2 D3, (see Figs. 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, and 8,) which are secured to a horizontal shaft, E, with which they rotate. These cams act on a set of sliding standards, F F1 F2 F3, one to each cam, and an interinittent rotary motion is imparted to the shaft E and its cams D Dl l)2 l)3 by an eccentric, Gr, Fig. 1, rod G', feedcollar H, and its feed-dogs 1:11z H3, (best seen in Fig. 2*,) said feed-collar with its feed-dogs being constructed on the nary feed-Wheel used in sewing-machines. The end of the rod G is forked, (see Fig. 1,) and it embraces and slides upon `a roller on the end of an arm, z, Figs. 1, 2, and 2*, which projects from a rock-shaft, Z. (Best seen in Figs. 2 and 2*.) A lever, Z, which extendsV from this rock-shaft through the side of the case A, serves, to turn the or lower the forked end of the eccentric-rod G. From the end of this rod rises a pin, g, which engages with a toe, h, Figs. l, 2, 2*, and 4, projecting from the4 feed-collar H, at each backward motion of said rock-shaft Z has been turned so as to-retain the rod G' in its elevated position. By these means the feed-collar, which is loose on the shaft E", receives a forward motion by each stroke of the rod Gf, andthis motion is communicated to the shaft E by the feed-dogs H2 H3,which gripe the rim h1, projecting from the side of the' cam D3. The backward move- H is produced `by the coiled spring/L2, Fig.` 2*, which is secured at one end to the fixed point y, and at th other. to thepi'n h3, projecting from the collar, and

point, running 1 along one side thereof, then around itshead or A eye, and ually back on the other side to the principle of the ordi-l same so as to raise rod, provided the outward in the 2 coasts when this motion takes place the feed-dogs H2 H3 slip upon the rim h and impart no motion to the cam-shaft E. When the rod Gr is elevated therefor, the cuan-shaft E receives an intermittent rotary motion.

The lever Z, lwhich governs the rock-shaft Z" and rod G', is provided with an arm or catch, z2, Figs. 2 and 3, which bears against the circumference of adisk, d3, that is secured on the cam-shaftE, Ysaid. arm being held in contact with said disk by the gravity of the lever Z, assisted by a spring, z", which is secured at one end to the arm z and at the other tothe caseA,Fi g.1 The disk d3 is provided with a notch or recess, do, Fig. 2and when the camshaft has turned far enough to bring this recess opposite to the catch z2 this catch falls in, the rock-shaft Z turns, the rod G is lowered, and the motion of the cam-shaft E is stopped.

'In order to start the motionof the cam-shaft,

the lever Z is raised against the action of its spring Z4, causing the pin g of the rod G to act on the toe h of the feed-collar, and after the camshaft E has been propelled one step the catch z2 bears against the full portion of the disk d3,

and the camshaft isturned until it has completed a full revolution, when the, catch z2 again drops into the recess d of the disk d3. The stop-lever and its catch also act to hold the cam in position with reference to the other moving parts of the machine and prevent them beingaccidentally thrown out of time, as they anponly begin their rotary movement when the stop-lever Z is raised to liberate the catch z2 from the recess in the disk (Z3, and this cannot be done without raising the arm z and throwing the pin g on the rod G into-action.

The amount of the feed-motion imparted to the cam-shaft E for each stroke of the eccentricfrod G is controlled by the following means From the feed-collar vH extends a pin, h4

Y' through a slotted plate, yl-,which is secured toa slide, Y', which is adapted to move back and forth on a bracket, A4f1rmly secured to the end of the case A. (See Figs. 1 and 2*.) A lever, Y, serves to. adjust the' slide Y with the slotted plate y1.' I This-lever.turnswon a pivot, y2, secured in the-bracketjA4, and it engages lwith a slot in the'slide Y by means of apin, ya, projecting from its under side. (See Figs. 2 and 3.) By theactionof the spring h2, Figs. l and 2*, the feed-collar H is turned until the pin 'h4 strikes the inner edge of theslot' in the plate g, and if the slide Y' is moved direction of the arrow shown on it in Figs. l and 2* the feed-collar is turned so as to throw the toe h back away from the pin g in the rod Gr', and by moving the slide Yl inwardly the toe h is caused to move toward the pin g by the action of the spring h2. If toe h is moved back, the mot-ion imparted to it by the action of the pin g on the rod G is decreased, and vice versa, and the amount of motion imparted to the cam-shaftE for each stroke of the rod G can thus be regulated by moving the lever Y, which controls the posithe position of tion of the slide Y. This lever extends out through the side of the case A, so that it can be readily operated whenever it may he desirable to change'the feed-motion of the camshaft E.

The eccentricl G is firmly mounted on the main shaft N, Figs. l and 3, which receives motion by a belt and pnlleyN,Fig. 3, or any equivalent means. On one end of this shaft is irmly mountedv a crank.r M, which connects, Y

by means of a rod, m, and arm m2, with a vertical rock-shaft, M, from which motion is transmitted to the shuttle-carrier m by means of a lever, M2. On the opposite end of the shaft N is secured a crank, P, which imparts a vibratory motion to a curved lever R, which swings on a pivot, Q, secured in the arm or goose-neck A2, and is connected by a link, r, Fig. 2, to the needle-bar R'.

The connection between .the crank P and lever R is eected by a pitman, S, and two links, S1 S2, one of which is attachedV to the standard `A3 by a pivot, s, while the other is secured to the lever It by a pivot, s1. rotation of the shaft N The continuous thus produces a horizontal reciprocating motion of the shuttle and a vertical reciprocating motion of the needle. The motion of lthe needle, however, is irregular, as will be readily understood from the diagram, Fig. 10. The crank P rotates in the direction of the. arrow, and when it arrives in the position l the links S1 S2, being connected to the-crank P by pitman S, are brought in a right line, and the lever R is caused to swing back to the extreme point of its motion, and consequently the needle reaches the lowest point of its motion.

Asthe motion of the crank progresses the pivot s3, which connects the links Sl S2, is brought in the position shown in dotted lines in Fig. 10, and the needle is caused to move up a short distance; and when the crank P reaches the position 2 the needle is again depressedto its lowest position. The purpose of this intermediate upward movement of the needle is to forma loop v.on the needle-thread for the passage of the shuttle, and I am well aware that numerous devices have beenn sed and proposed for the purpose of producing this effect 1n shuttle sewing-machines; but- Ihave found that by the combination of the pitman S and links S S2 with the crank P and.

the needle-lever R the needle-bar can be run with great rapidity without danger of causing an objectionable noise or trembling of the machine andewithout an undue strain on the working parts.

The main shaft N is geared by a pinion, N2, and cog-wheel T with a shaft, T, Fig, 3, which carries two cams, U V, the former of which serves to impart motion to the oscillating frame W, while the latter controls the motion of the take-up lever T2, as will be hereinafter more fully explained.

The material containing-a slit which is to be formed inte a button-hole is adjusted in the clamp B by means of a gage, I, which is situ.-

i l l Il senses 3 ated Vbeneath an opening in tlieilo .li-p'lateA, and which can be raised and low rei! by means of a lever,`K2, rod k', rock-shaft L, and arm l.' (See Figs. 1, 3,a'nd 11.)- AWhen the gage is raised it projects up into the clamp B, so that the slit in the material can be placed on said gage, and after thel material has thus been adjusted in the -proper position the ciamp is closed and the gage is droppede The example shown in. the drawing illustrates a machine constructed for sewing eight different sizes of button holes, ,and ,l have therefore provided eight tongues seeFigs. 3 and 15) corresponding to these eig t different sizes. This gage is secured to a slide, l, which moves in a suitable guide, I2, Fig. l5, secured to the outside of the shuttle-race, andprovid-ed with a groove or recess to engage with an arm, k, which extends from a verticall shaft, K1. This shaft rises above the cloth-plate, and to its upper end is firmly secured a lever, K, which moves over a suitable scale, indicating the size of the button-hole to which the machine is to be adjusted. In orderto accomplish this object, the cams D Dl D2 D3 aire each composed of a graduated series of faces or steps, sixteenin number, the first eight of each series corresponding in form and number to thesize and number of button-holes thel machine is adapted to work, while the second eight in each yseries insure the` correct operation of the first eight, as will be herinafter more fully explained. For instance, if the largest vbutton-hole to be Inadeis one and three-eighths of an inch in length,I the first steps in each of the cams must be so shaped that they impart to those portions oi' the mechanism actuated by them` the nedessary amount of motion for this site` buttonhole. The second steps -in each of the cams correspond to the next smaller-size vbutton-hole, andl so on.

For the purpose of setting the-cams to oor respond to the size of the button-hole to be sewed, the shaft E, 4on which they are mounted, is adapted to slide in the direction of its length, its bearing at one end being in a box, D4, Fig. 15, and on its opposite end on a pin, e, Fig. 2, which is secured in the side of the case A, and enters a socket bored for its reception in the shaft E. (Best seen in Fig. d.)

The box D4 is adapted to slide onl its support.

dl, Figs. 2 and l5, and it is connected to an arm, d?, which extends from the vertical rock-shaft Kl. By moving the lever K, therefore, which serves to adjust the gage-slide 1.-', the cam shaft E is adjusted to bring those stepsvci' the l cams in operation which correspond lto the size of the buttonhole to be sewed, wliile .at the same time the gages I are moved, si) that by the action of the lever K2 the gageeorrespending to the desired size of the putten-hole is raised. l

By referring to Figs. 4, 5, 6, 7, and 8 it will be seen that each of the slidingstandards F FL Fz F3 is provided with two rollers, f fl, one on each side of each ofthe cams D D1 D2 -D, the rollers f being' so situated as to run in ycontact with any one of the first eight steps of the'corresponding cams, while the rollers f1 are in such a posi-tion on their respective standards that they bear against the corresponding. one of the second series of steps on the appropriate cani. For example, the front roller f on one of the standards being'in contact with the first step` of its cam, the other roller, f', on the inner part of the same standard must'be in line with the ninth step, Which is the first of the second series on the same cam; and, since these rollers arepositively fixed upon their standard, the form of the ninth step must be the counterpart of that of the rst step, and so on for each succeeding step of the series, in order to keep both rollers in contact with their cam, and to render the movements of the standards, and of the parts connected with and operated by them, posi-- tive in either direction.

The cams l) D D'L D3 serve to impart the requisite movements to the carriage U, which supports the button-hole clamp B, so as to cause the needle to descend alternately through the slit in thefabric, and then through the fabric itself close to the edge of the'slit, while the fabric advances and then recedes until the stitches are laid all round the edges of the slit, as will be presently more fully explained.

The carriage C consists of an L -shaped piece, (see Fig. 11,) .which moves smoothly within the slide U, and is provided in its ver tical arm with a screw-hole to receive the,

screw f4", which fastens the clamp to it, as already explained. lt has no direct motion of itself except in a direction at right angles to the camshaft E, the remaining motions reqn red to properly feed the bntton-hole clamp being imparted to the slide C1. This slide is made in the form of a cross, (see Figs. 3, 4, and 11,) with a horizontal arm, c, at right angies to the part supporting the carriage C, and this arm lits into a iianged bar, U?, to which a reciprocating motion is imparted, as will be hereinafter explained, and which is guided between lugs c a projecting from a fixed brace, A5, that 4extends across the case A. The-horizontal arm c ofthe slide C is arranged to move Within or upon the flanged bar C, sometimes with the same and at other times independent-ly of it, ina direction at right angles to the carriage C, imparting to said carriage a movement parallel to the camshaft E.

The reciprocating movement of the lianged bar C2 between the lugs a a is produced by thel cam U, (see Figs. '3, 4, and 5,) said cam being provided with a groove, which engages with 4an arm, U", extendii'ig from Va vertical shaft, U. To the upper end of this rocksllat't is secured a curved arm, u, which extends through the end fw of a pitman, W', the opposite end of which is connected to the os cillating frame W by a pivot, w. The end u1 of the pitman W can be made to -slide in or out on the arm u by means of a bell-crank 4 Irl2in1-,Svara l lever, X,wl 1ich has its fulcrum on a pin secured in a bracket, A, Fig. l, and. thereby the throw of the oscillating frame W can be increased or diminished.

The frame W is provided with gudgeons we, (see Figs. 3, 4, 5, and 6,) which turnin brackets w", projecting from the inside of the case A, and it forms two pairs of bearings, w2 wz, for two sliding rods, w3 wi, situated one above the other, as shown in Figs. 1 and 5. The lower slide w* carries a stud, d4, which extends through one end of a lever, D5, which has its fulerum on a pivot, d5, secured in the sliding standard F, Fig. 5, and the opposite end of which is connected by a pivot, d", with the hanged bar U2. As the cam D revolves the slide w, being connected to the Sliding standard F, is caused to move in its bearings; and whenever the pivot d4 comes in line with the gudgeons w, or with the axis ofthe oscillating frame WV, it turns in the end of the lever D5 without imparting any motion to it, While the motion of the lever D5 increases the farther the pivot d4 is moved away from the axis of the frame XV.

The independent movement of the carriage C, supporting the button-hole clamp, is goverued chiefly by the cam Dl and the upper slide zo in the oscillating frame W in the following manner: The slide w3 connects by a pivot, in, with a slide, E3, which moves in a hanged bar, el, and connects by a pivot, 6*, with a bell-crank lever, F4. This bell-crank lever has its fulcruin on a pivot, f2, and it connects by a pivot, f4, with a strap that embraces a pin,f2, projecting from the side of the carriage G. The flanged guide-bar c3 is secured to the sliding standard F1. which is exposed to the action of the cam D1. (See Figs. 4 and 6.) This cam is so formed that during the largest portion of its revolution the pivot 109 is in line with the axis w zo of the oscillating frame W, and consequently no motion is imparted to the slide E3, bellcrank lever F4, and carriage C; but when the said cam arrives in the position shown in Fig. 6, or in the position just reverse from that, the slide 'w3 is moved so as to throw the pivot w9 on one side or on the other of the axis wa fw of the oscillating frame, and during the short time the cam occupies such positions the carriage C receives a short reciprocating motion ina direction at right angles to the cam-shaft E.

The third cam, D2, Figs. 4 and 7, acts to impart to its sliding standard F2 an intermittent motion at right angles to the camshaft E, first in one direction, or forward, and then in the opposite direction, cr back again to the starting-point. This sliding standard supports the fulcrum f2 of the bell-crank lever F4, and its motion is transmitted to this bell-crank lever and also to the carriage C, which is attached thereto, the pivot c", which forms the connectionbetween the bell-crank lever and the slide E, being secured in a strap which is adapted to follow the motions of the sliding standard v a F2. The falce of the cam D2 is composed of a work, and also of a second series of thesamenumber, and of such form that the second roller, f1, of the standard F1 will run in close contact with any one of the second series of steps when the first roller, f, is in contact with the corresponding step of the first series. For instance, if the roller j' is being actuated.' by the rst step of the cam D2, which is the largest one of the series, then the ninth step, or the rst one of the second series, must be engaged with the second roller, f1, and so on for each succeeding step of the series, in order that the first roller, j', may be properly held against the surface of the cam to receive its motion. Instead of using two series of steps in the several cams and two rollers `in the several standards, however, a single series 'of steps and a single roller may be used, saidy roller being held in contact with the desired' step by means of a spring; but I preferito use two rollers, as described, so as to give agpositive motion to the standards in either direction, and to facilitate the operation of moving the cam-shaft E in the direction of its len gth.

The fourth y the sliding wedge El-, and imparts to the same at the proper time a short longitudinal Inovernent, first in one direction, or forward, then in a reverse direction, or backward, equal to twice the length of the forward movement, and then forward again to the startingpoint, which is the position shown in Figs. 3 and 4. This wedge Ex reciprocates with the flanged bar G2, and it is ee to; slide between the lugs f5 of the standard F3; and as the face of the cam D3 is of a circular form, except for a small portion of its circumference, the wedge El has no motion imparted to it by the cainl)3 and standard E3 while the roller j' of the standard is running ini contact with the circular portion of the cam ,n but it serves only to connect the slide o and ilanged bar C2 together. When the metion iof the hanged bar is about to cease, however, which takes place when the cam D throws thei pivot d4, connecting the levers D5 with the slide w1, in line with the axis w w of the oscillating frame W, the cam l)3 moves the wedgellI a certain distance, causing it to slide within the lugs @l5 of the bar C2 and the lugs el6 on the top of the slide c, and tomove said slide, together with the carriage (l, in a lateral direction on the bar C, first to one side of its central position, then back again and to the opposite side an equal distance, and iinally back to its first position.

By the combined action of the cams D D1 D2 D, as above described, the proper feeding movements are imparted to the clamp B,caus ing the button-hole held in the clamp to be presented in the required manner to the needle.

In order to .show more clearly the purpose of these several motions, and themanner in Whiclbpth fymctuate the button-hole clamp and its ca,.ri,-2gq' tlie diagram, Fig. 9, is introduced cam D3, Figs. 4 and .8, operates l l, i i

in the drawings, in which the broke Ilie y z represents a vertical plane extendin through i with the slit of the button-hole at the time the needle enters said slit. The radiating lines around thefbutton-hole indicate the position ofthe stitches. Since the needle has no motion besides its up-and-'down motion in a vcr- -tical plane, alateral movemen must be im- 'partedto the clamp B, in order to cause the needle to enter the material at a distance from the edge of the button-hole, and then the clamp must be moved back again to allow thc needle to pass down through the slit. At the same time the clamp must have a progressive motion in the fdirection of line y z, to cause the stitchesto belaid side by side in aregularmanner along and around the edge ofthe buttonhole. At the beginning the clamppis so situated that the needle passes down through the cloth in front of the slit, and Ywhen `the feedcam begins to act the clamp is moved forward, and tlie needle passes down thro 1gb the slit at the point m, Fig. 9; and as the shuttle passes through the loop of the needle-thread and the needle ascends the shuttle -threa'd is carried up through the slit, the clamp is moved forward by the cam D2, and the needle passes down asecond timethrough the slit, the shut- 'tle passing again through the needle-loop, after which the needle rises, and the shuttle-thread is again carriednp through the slit. The clamp is again moved forward by the 'cam DZ, and 'a lateral'movement is given. toit by the action of the cam U, which makes onlyoue revolution to three of the main shaft, or to three 11p-anddown strokes of the needle, so that the'ne'edle at its subsequent descent passes down through the material, and on its next ascent it carries the shuttle-thread up through tlie'materal, so that two loops of the shuttle-threa/,d lie below and the third above the material, their ends being drawn together at the edg while the needlei'hread lies in a s aight line along the edge of the slit, lookin lo'ops of the shuttle-thread. l

As the clamp moves in the direction oil arrow w the next stitch is formed in the same manner as above described. The two. mov ments oi' the clamp required for the form ation each stitch are produced by the oscillatingsframe W and the cam Dznntil the point o, Fig. 9, is reached, where the circular eye of the buttonhole commences. At this point it is evident that an additional lateral movement' is required in order to lay the stitches .around the curve at the proper distance from the axis so z, and this object is effected by the wedge El, which, being operated by the cam D3, imparts to the clamp-carriage and to the clamp a motion in a lateral direction to a distance equal to the radi us of the eye oi' the button-hole, the center of which is situated in the line ya. At this portion of the button-hole, therefore, the clamp receives three movements-viz, the progressive movement, produced by the cam ,1)2, to

Ation of the clamp-carriage, produced of the slit,

spacey the stitches; the lateral reciprocating movement of the 'flanged bar C, to cause the needle to pass alternately through the slit and 'then' through the material;

by the wedge El. When the point u in the eye iS reached, thewedge begins to recede,-causing the clamp to move laterally toward the -axis y z until the head of the eye is reached. At this point the stitches are laid at right angles to those upon the side of the button-hole, and the motion ofthefflanged bar C2 issltopped by the action of the cam D, throwing the pivot d", Fig. 5, in liuc with the axisw6 we of the oscil lating frame W. At the same time the bellcrank lever F4, Fig, 4., is brought in full play, imparting to the clamp-carriage a reciprocating movement in the direction'of the axis y z, and causing the needleto pass down through the eye of the button-hole and then through the material near its head. At this point the standard F2 of the cam D. has completed its inward stroke, and it begins to return, so as to draw the clamp-carriage back and to present the opposite side of the button-hole to the needle.

The wedge E1 continues its backward motion, causing the clamp-carriage to move away from the axis y z, Fig. 9, toward the pointt'of the eye and after this point has been passed the wedge El 4advances until the straight portion of the button-hole is reached. At this point the motion of the wedge El stops, and the flanged bar-Gz acts alone to move the carriage laterally toward` and from the axis y z. g

The clamp is moved in the direction of arrow wl, and, by the combined action of the lever D5 and sliding standard F2,Fig. 4, Vthe stitches are laid regularly until the end of the buttonhole is reached. At this point the reciprocating 'act-ion of the bell-crank lever F4 is brought again into play, the action of the flanged bar G2 being momentarily arrested while the stitches are laid in line with the axis y z, until the point is reached where the sewing of the button-hole had been commenced.

rom this explanation it'will be seen that the required reciprocating movements of the clamp-carriage are produced by the cam U, the oscillating frame W, and the levers D5 and F4, and that these parts are thrown into and out of action by thc cams D D; also, that the cam D2 produces a longitudinal progressive movement of thc clam p ,and governs itslength of travel, and consequently the length of the button-hole; audthatthe fourth cam, D3, gives a side motion tothe clamp-carriage by the action of the wedge El upon the slide c, so as to shape the circular portion of the eye of the buttonhole. By moving the lever X, Fig. 4, the throw of the oscillating frame W, and consequently the movements of the several parts connected to said frame, can be regulated.

In forming the stitches and in tightening the same at the proper times, as above stated, thetake-up lever T2 forms an essential element. This take-up lever is pivoted to the and the` side' mogooseneck A2, (see Fig. 1,) and it is operated by thc cam V, Figs. 1 and 3, through the Lnemium of the curved arm T", rock-shaft T3, lever T5, and connecting-rod T6, the cam V being mounted on the secondary shaft 'Las already stated. j

By the action oi the take-up lever the needle-thread is alternate] y slackcned as thc necdle descends to form a loop beneath the cloth for the passage of lthe shuttle, and then tightened as the needle rises, so as to draw up the shuttle Jthread. Said cainis provided with three spurs, Fig. 1, and three intermediate depressed faces, and so timed with respect to the needle-actuating mechanism that the spurs raise the take-up lever at each ascent'of the needle, and allow it to drop each time the necdle descends, and thereby the needle-tl'ircad is kept in a state of tension as the two threads interlock on the edge of the hut-tonhole, and it is caused to lie in a straight line along the edge of the slit in the form of a cord, with the loops of the shuttle-tl'iread coiled round it. Furthermore, by the action of the cam V, one out of three of the loops of the shuttle-thread is drawn up through the material as thencedle rises, and is laid upon the cloth and drawn to the edge of the button-hole as the lateral movement of the cloth takes place.

The clamp which holds and presents the material to be sewed to the needle is shown in'Figs. 1, 11, l2, and 13. It is secured to the upright standard of the clamp-carriage C,

which standard moves in an opening of the proper size in the top plate of the case. `llt consists of a'bottom plate, b", provided with two side iiai'iges or ears, b, which form the bearings for the pivots b2 of a jaw, b, and also for a rock-shaft, b'f, carrying an eccentric, b, from which extends the handle B1. This eccentric acts ou spring b9, so as to hold theY jaw b down with a yielding pressure. NVhenYV the eccentric is turned inthe direction of arrow 1, Fig. 11, the jaw b swings open by the action of a spring, b4. Said jaw is provided Wit-h downwardly-curved arms bl between which is situated a slotted plate, 2, which swings on pivots b fastened in said arms,

Figs. 12 and 13. This slotted plate forms the guide for a throat-piece, Z, (see Figs. 11 and 13,) which is provided with an aperture, D12, for the passage of the needle, and with a slit, bla, which allows the thread to pass when the throat-piece is drawn back by the rod B3 at the completion of a buttondiole, and when the material is to be readjusted in the clamp for the sewing of the next button-hole.

The oce of the throat-plate b3 is to aoid a bearin g andholding surface immediately about the needle, and to strip the material from the needle as the latter rises.Y It is held inY its proper position for the passage of the needle by the rod B3, and said rod is itself held by a sliding catch., B, Fig.- 1, in order that it may move laterally to permit the lateral movement of plate b3, for the purpose hereinbefore mentioncd.

For the'purposeof operating my machine the following directions will be suicient: The setting-lever K, Fig. 15, is moved to bring its end at the mark or iigure designating the size of thelbn'titoh-hole to be worked, for the purpose of bringing the gage of that size into position,l and of moving the corresponding steps or {faeesot' the cams Dl D2 D3 into place. TheV clamp-lever iBl is then drawn forward, the jaw of the clamp is raised and heldV up by thc alctibn` cil the spring b4, Fig. 11, the throat-pirate b'iis drawn back by the handle B, Figa 1, and. the appropriate gage I is thrown uprby moving the lever K2. The slit previously cut of the proper size in the matcrial is then placed' over the gage I, the upper jaw of the clamp is brought down and pressed against the surface oi the material by means of the clamp-lever B1, the gage I is drawn down by thev reverse movement of the lever K2, and the throat-plate b3 is pushed forward to its Working position. operations the button-hole slit is accurately adjusted in the clamp and the successive opent of any skill of' the person operating it. When the main shaft N is set in motion, and the stop-leverlZ, 1, is raised to'liberate the cams D DI D2 D3 and to throw the eccentric-rodG. into action, the clamp moves beneath the needle in a regular manner, as above described, longitudinally and laterally, and` Vpresents 'the material to the action of the stitching mechanism until the button-hole is position whence it started. At this moment the cam-shaftE has made an entire revolution, the catch z2, Fig. 3, of the stop-lever Z drops in gear with the rim d3, the eccentricrod G' is thrown out of action, and the motion of the feed-cams is arrested.

Nhat I claim as new, and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is

1. The combination, with the stitch-forming mechanism of a sewingmachine, of a take-up lever and a cam, V, adapted to hold the needle-thread at lperiods of varying lengths at regular intervals, substantially as described.

2. In a button-hole sewing-machine, the combination of clamp B, carriage C, the series of sliding standards, and the series of cams operating uponf. said standards through intermediate devices, substantially as and for the purpose set forth. v Y.

3. The combination, with a holder or clamp, B of an oscillating frame, W', having sliding rods YVB I`W4, levers D5 FJ, connecting mechanism, s bstantially as described, and devices by mean.` ot 'which oscillatory motion is communicated td said frame, substantially as and for the purpose set forth.

4. The combination, with the clamp-carriage G, of echanism for producing a lateral reciprocati not aid clamp-carriage, the same consisting df tige slide c C1, anged bar C2, Wedge E, lever' Y 5 oscillating frame W, sliding standard F, and mechanism, substantially as By these successive eration of theV machine is rendered independfinished. and the clamp has returned to the specified, for reciprocating said standard, substantially as described.

5'. The combination, withthe clamp-carriage C, bell-crank lever F4, oscillating frame W, an ged plate e3, slide E3, connected with said bell-crank lever, sliding standard F1, cam D?, and mechanism, substantially as described, for imparting motion to said cam and oscillating saidv frame W, substantially as and for the purpose set'forth. A 6.- The combination, with theclamp or holder B, of'a ianged bar C2, slide'CI, carriage C, am D3, sliding standard F3, and the sliding wedge El, for imparting to the clampa side movement, substantially as shown. 7. The combination, with the cam-shaft E and-eccentric G of the forked connecting-rod G', provided wlth the .projecting pin g, the loose collar H, toe h, feed-dogs H2133, cam D3, having the rim hl, rand a suitable device for producing the backward motion of the said loose collar H, substantially as described.

8. The combination, with thel cam-shaft E and eccentricG,` of the rod Gf, having a strap surrounding said eccentric, and provided with a pin, 'g, loose collar H, provided with toe h,

feed-dogs'l2 H3, pin h4, slotted plate y1, lever Y, and a suitable device for producing the backward movement' of the loose collar H, substantially as described.

v9. The combination, with cam-shaft E and eccentric@ -of the forked connecting-rod G',

suitably connecte'dwith said eccentricat one end,.and provided with the toe-g at its forked' end, of the feeding devices operated by said rod, thel arm Z,'extending outward through case A, attached toA a rock-shaft, Z', from which projects anarm, z, having a Wrist-pin projecting into the fork of said connecting-rod,

the catch-arm z2, projecting at right angles from the arm Z, and the notched disk di, as .Set forth.4

10. The-combination, with the clamp 'or holder B, of the gage I, having a series of tongues adapted'to diii'erent lengths of button-holes,and va device for raising and lowering said gage, as desired, substantially as described.

1l., The combination, with the stitch-form- 'ing ,devices of a button-hole sewing-machine,

of a reciprocating fabric-clamp, a longitudilnally-ad j ustable shaft, having mounted thereon a series of cams and intermediate devices, through which motion is Vcommunicated therefrom to said clamp, whereby the machine can beadapted to stitch button-holes ofdifferent lengths,substantially as set forth..

12. rlhe combination, with a clampor holder, B, and with a sliding shaft, E, carryn g a series of graduated cams, of a series of gages, I, mounted on a slide, and a lever, K, which con- -nects -with. the `cam-shaft and with the gageslide, substantially as and for the purpose described;

13. The combination, with the cloth-clamp B,

carriage C, and the'series of graduated cams D2, of the sliding standard F2' angl connecting devices, substantially as described, whereby the proper progressive reciprocating motion -is imparted to said clamp, essentially as set forth.

14. The combination, with' the needle-bar.I R', of the arm R, links S1 S2, pit-man S, crank P, and suitable devices for operating said crank, substantially as set forth.

In testimony that I claim the foregoing-' `have hereunto set my hand and seal this 29th day of' May, 187 7.

EUGENE 'MOREAU .[L. s.}

Witnesses C. W. M.',SMITH, EDWARD E. OsBoRN. 

